The Dinner Jacket That Was Not Seen

A night serving the 1 percent goes from class to crass

Let me tell you about the very rich. They are different from you and me. They possess and enjoy early, and it does something to them, makes them soft where we are hard, and cynical where we are trustful, in a way that, unless you were born rich, it is very difficult to understand. They think, deep in their hearts, that they are better than we are because we had to discover the compensations and refuges of life for ourselves. Even when they enter deep into our world or sink below us, they still think that they are better than we are. They are different.

― F. Scott Fitzgerald

It began with a vague text from a former work colleague.

“Hey Charles, are you by any chance available tomorrow evening? The event is in Manhattan.” And that is all it said.

These kinds of texts pose a unique set of challenges and opportunities. On the one hand, they surely involve some kind of event work, and event work can be a really great way to supplement one’s income. On the other hand, while the prospect of event work is great, it also comes with a bunch of questions and concerns. The most fraught being the “money question.”

Sometimes it can be hard to just ask, “How much am I going to be paid?”

With this particular friend, her client base tended to be extremely wealthy, and while she paid a solid hourly rate, it was still below my normal day rate. Friend or no friend, I don’t like to lowball myself.

That said, with her clients being people in private equity and hedge fund management who tended to tip very, very well, this was a chance to swim in the wake of whales.

So, I decided to be honest about my day rate. She said that while she couldn’t guarantee I’d make that amount, she also said that this client was usually very generous.

I went ahead and took the job, and once I saw the address she gave me, I was glad I did.

The client’s home was one of those huge townhouses on the East side of Manhattan right near Museum Mile. The building number was in the low double digits, and the street was in the mid-eighties. It was the kind of place that you might pass by on the way to the Metropolitan Museum of Art and wonder who the heck lives there and what it might look like inside.

Soon I wouldn’t have to wonder.

When I arrived, I rang the bell and was buzzed in through two heavy wrought iron doors with frosted glass. The lobby was marbled from floor to ceiling, and the walls were covered with large 1st edition photographic prints and tons of original modern artwork. This outer area led to a huge kitchen, and its entranceway had a blue neon art piece on the wall that read in florid script: “Meet Me in Heaven, I Will Wait for You”.

There were various tables scattered throughout the room like precious stones, and on them sat numerous lamps made of rare substances the like of which I had never seen before, with lampshades that matched their opulence. There was a table made of wrought metal in the center of the room, which must’ve easily weighed 400 pounds, and it was laden with an enormous vase full of freshly cut flowers, and large coffee table art books were scattered around it like pollen. On top of the books were more huge quartz stones that were cracked open, and a large candle illuminated them. In one corner stood a sculpture of a melted conga drum, and the entire room was filled with recent purchases of modern art, much of it still in crates. The place was surprisingly quiet considering a social event was about to happen, and I had to look around a bit to see who it was that buzzed me in and where I should go to check in. I peeked into the kitchen where there was an older East Indian woman in there alone, diligently working and unpacking things for the party.

Eventually, I found Joao, the young Brazilian guy who was leading the event on behalf of my friend. He told me where I should change, and then I went upstairs to the second floor to get things set up.

The owners of the mansion were an East Indian couple, and the man had recently retired at the ripe old age of 50 after running a very secret and elite hedge fund at a large, well-known investment firm for 20 years. When I met him, he was understandably distracted by texting on his phone, but he still asked my name, and unlike many wealthy people whom I’ve met when working in their homes, it seemed genuinely important to him that we meet properly. He looked me in the eye and smiled while he shook my hand and introduced himself.

The event was basically going to be a small dinner party of about 15 people, and the drinks were really simple: wine, champagne, and a few different types of spirits, mostly vodka, scotch, and tequila. The “bar” was more of a huge wall unit made of oak with a low boy fridge built into it and a sink along with a marble counter to make the drinks on. The rest of the second floor consisted of another smaller kitchen that was secondary to the one downstairs and that came complete with a modern dumbwaiter. Beyond that, there was a small back office for us to put our belongings in, a large area at the top of the stairs where the bar was, and a large, lushly carpeted and bay-windowed living room. Everywhere I looked, there was a fantastically constructed art piece or a gorgeous item of furniture plush in texture or made of polished, petrified wood. It was like bartending in the Museum of Modern Art.

It turns out that Joao had worked with this client before, so he knew all of their quirks and preferences. These kinds of details are essential when dealing with the ultra-wealthy, especially in their own homes, but his experience with them would also prove very valuable in more unexpected ways later on.

Joao’s wife, Gisele, was also working with us, so it was a bit of a family affair. The way service was worked out was that Joao would be the waiter, and I would bartend, meaning he would go into the living room where they were seated and take their orders and then tell me what to make for them. Then, after I made them, he would take their drinks out to them. His wife mainly stayed in the kitchen organizing the flow of hors d’oeuvres and the main courses that were going to come up via the dumbwaiter for dinner later.

The guests arrived in staggered fashion, and some had young children who were delighted to either meet for the first time or to reunite. They were all well-behaved, and once there were about 10 of them, they were sent up to the third floor to play, watch a movie, and eat while the adults mingled and chatted. As I said, the party was small, but it was also attended by the host couple’s two adult children. One was a young woman in her early twenties, who was there with her boyfriend, and the other was a young man in his mid to late 20s.

They also had a dog. It looked like a larger version of a Barbet breed, and I swear this animal somehow knew it was part of the One-Percent too. Its haughty demeanor made even the snobbiest cat look like the paragon of humility. Every time it deigned to look at me, it did so with such disdain that it felt as though I was being sized up by the reincarnation of some haughty Brahmin relative of theirs.

I was alerted of the son’s arrival when Joao suddenly rushed over to me and said, “Oh, the son is here. Quick, make me 3 chilled shots of Stoli Elit! But add some water to them; the father doesn’t want him to get too drunk.”

Huh?

At the time, I had no idea who he was talking about, and the suggestion that I add water to chilled shots in a private home, or really anywhere, seemed really bizarre. The bar was in plain view of almost everyone, and I would look really silly if I was seen, and since they were shots and not shooters, whoever was drinking them would surely notice something when they drank them. Anyways, I played along and quickly grabbed the shaker, poured some vodka in it, and tried to surreptitiously add some water, and then shook it up to chill it, which also waters them down even more. I poured out 3 shots into 3 empty rocks glasses. As I’m doing this, I see the host’s brother beaming at a young, handsome man who sort of looked like a young, olive-skinned, more classically handsome Sly Stallone. He was fit-looking, wore the mask of confidence and the gilded privilege that came from being raised around extreme wealth, wrapped in a snug t-shirt, jeans that were a bit too tight, and barefoot. His uncle said his name with a combination of pride and chide. “Nigellllllllll” he said, drawing out the last syllable. I realized that this was who the shots were for. What I was also quickly made aware of, however, was that they were not for him and his uncle to share. ALL THREE shots were for him. He drank all three immediately, chased them with a small glass of orange juice.

Almost as soon as he finished the shots, he complained that they tasted like water. Even though I was told to weaken them by his Dad, I still felt like a bit of a jerk as he groused, “Is this Grey Goose??” to no one in particular (which of course it wasn’t). His father countered by saying that he had asked the salesperson and was told that Stoli Elit was one of the top vodkas there is. In the background, I nodded along and tried to regain some of my professionalism self-esteem.

I’m not sure whether it was out of suspicion of how his shots were being made, an anti-social wish to avoid small talk with the other guests, or keeping close proximity to the booze, but after that first round, Nigel spent the entire time he was on that floor of the house hovering right near the bar.

As with any party where there are small children and adults present, the adults tend to shuffle the small kids off somewhere so the grown-ups can talk. In this case, and with these generally well-behaved children aged 7-12, that place was upstairs to the 3rd floor. Not long after Nigel had his second trifecta of shots—this time unadulterated by H2O—Nigel followed them up to what I imagined was his room.

The host couple mingled with their friends while their tall, colorfully dressed daughter doted on their dog, who eventually had to be sent downstairs because he refused to stop trying to help himself to the various snacks that were being passed around. As the night progressed, it seemed like this was going to be pretty easy money. The only question was how much the host was going to tip us and how late things would go. After all, we were in their house. Joao had told me earlier that sometimes they liked to go until really late and things could get pretty wild. I found that a bit hard to believe given how conservative everyone looked, but then again, some of the wildest people I have served have appeared very buttoned up at first. Besides, my base pay was based on an hourly rate, so a late night could also be more lucrative.

After serving up a few glasses of wine and a martini or two, I noticed that Nigel had re-emerged from the upstairs. He had someone order another round of shots, and as they were brought over to him, I saw that he was wearing some sort of vintage military jacket. It looked to be from the World War II era and was in excellent condition, but it was definitely not from any branch of the American military, nor was it British.

Whatever country it was from, it appeared to be authentic and not a replica based on what I could see. He stood proudly near the top of the stairs, showing it off to his doting uncle, who partially obscured my view, which prevented me from seeing what its provenance was. I overheard Nigel proudly saying how he rarely took it out because he didn’t want to damage it. While his uncle looked it over admiringly, I couldn’t help but wonder why he was wearing it at all since this wasn’t a costume party.

Nigel seemed to be born with almost every possible advantage, yet something seemed a bit off about him, the heavy drinking being the first sign. I had encountered some serious boozers in my 3 decades of bartending, but I had never encountered anyone who repeatedly downed three shots at a time. This was a bit of a red flag to me, but since he was safely in the confines of his own house, I considered it none of my business. I did, however, want to watch how the booze was affecting him a little bit because it seemed to be of some concern to his father, and ultimately it was he who was paying me, and I didn’t want him to be unhappy. As he stood by the stairs opposite the bar, pounding a trifecta of vodka shots every 10 or 15 minutes, I kept my eyes on him.

As Nigel and his uncle chatted, the uncle sipped on his Casa Dragones and soda, and the markings on the military jacket Nigel was wearing were still unrevealed. Like a scene from an Off-Broadway play that had been blocked out to create suspense and mystery in my mind, it seemed as though it would draw out until a second act. It went on for so long that I started to become unbearably curious. Over and over, I furtively stole glances, trying to see what the heck kind of jacket it was.

Suddenly, his uncle laughed uproariously at something he said and as he did, he turned his shoulder towards me just enough for me to fully see the jacket.

My eyes bulged as they keyed in on the striking black, white, and red emblem adorning his military jacket, surely the most violent, hateful symbol in the history of mankind.

He was wearing the jacket of a Nazi uniform.

I froze, and for a moment, my unflappable, “I’ve seen everything” veteran bartender façade cracked as I struggled to stay composed and professional.

Though I tried to remain calm, the horrific power and meaning of that monstrous glyph washed over me, and my head started to spin, and my emotions started to roil as I thought of all the hatred and harm it was responsible for. I scanned the room for a reaction from the other guests. I hadn’t seen any hint of one from his uncle, and most of the others were in the main sitting room, so maybe they hadn’t seen it. I didn’t know where Joao was, so I went into the kitchen for a second to clear my head. Gisele was in there prepping the trays of food and icing the champagne. The dissonant and disorienting effect I experienced felt akin to elevator music playing after the doors shut on a crime scene in a department store.

I didn’t really know his wife, and beyond saying hello, we had barely spoken, so I felt weird telling her what I had just seen. I stood in the kitchen for a few beats and gathered my thoughts. For one of the few times in my bartending career, I genuinely didn’t know what to do.

After a few minutes, I went back out to the bar. Nigel was gone, and Joao was standing there hurriedly pouring a glass of wine for one of the guests, seemingly oblivious to the fact that the host’s son had just been in there casually chatting away while wearing one half of a Nazi uniform. Nigel was nowhere to be seen.

As Joao whisked the drinks away, I stammered in a feeble attempt to tell him what happened.

“What’s up with this guy’s son?” I said.

“What do you mean?”

Trying to sound level-headed, I said, “Well… he was just hanging out down here wearing a Nazi officer’s jacket.”

He barely batted an eye. “Ohhhh… him… He’s a bit off. But he’s not really like that though. He’s a producer and he makes movies and stuff”. Then away he went with the drinks.

What the hell was he talking about??

He’s not really like what? A Nazi?!?

And what on earth did his being a producer and making movies have to do with his openly wearing a Nazi officer’s jacket at a dinner party?

My hands shook slightly as I continued making drinks and struggled to reason out what the hell Joao was talking about. While doing so, I heard some music wafting down from the upstairs that sounded familiar. Very familiar in fact. Suddenly I realized where I recognized it from.

It was the theme song from Inglourious Basterds.

Suddenly things made some twisted measure of sense. Nigel must have been upstairs cosplaying while watching Quentin Tarantino’s modern classic about Nazi hunters and that while he was doing so, he chose not to dress up as Lt. Aldo Raine, or Donny “The Bear Jew” Donowitz. Nor was he dressed up as Archie Hicox or even the former Nazi turned assassin Hugo Stieglitz. No, instead he chose to identify with and dress like Hans “the Jew Hunter” Landa.

Now I know what some of you may be thinking. In an effort to make sense of the surreal and horrifying notion of a man from East India wearing the uniform jacket of a Nazi officer your somewhat panicked mind might recall that the swastika is a symbol that has its origins in ancient India. Well, I can assure you that this young man was not wearing this Nazi uniform adorned with that symbol because of those origins. He was wearing it in its capacity as the outfit of a member of the National Socialist German Workers party, otherwise known as the Nazis. Was he himself a Nazi? I have no idea. But I do know he wore the jacket of their uniform proudly at a dinner party filled with people that the Nazis believed were worthy of extermination.

Eventually, Nigel went upstairs, and when he returned, he was dressed normally. As the night wore on, I kept working and doling out his trifecta of chilled vodka shots every 15 minutes or so while the insane surreal-ness of it all ricocheted through my thoughts. The more I heard Nigel talk, it became increasingly clear that him being a product of such wealth and opportunity was a kind of handicap for him. He had no personality at all and seemed profoundly bored in a way that only the scion of someone incredibly wealthy could be. His identity was entirely manifested in conversation solely by talking about where he went to school, where he had lived, how much he worked out, who he dated, and bizarrely contradictory political opinions, all of which were terrible. It all seemed engineered to reinforce some gilded, superficial image of success that he wished to project.

And then there were the shots.

He must’ve had at least 15 shots in under 2 hours, yet he just kept going. He showed no signs of being drunk, and other than the first round, they weren’t watered down anymore.

Dinner was served. It was spread out on their incredible dining room table family-style.

After dinner, there were more drinks and many more shots, which should’ve been made all the more effective since Nigel didn’t really eat anything.

3 more chilled shots and then 3 more and then 3 more again.

It was clear this concerned his father and that he wished he wouldn’t drink so much, but there was nothing to be done. Just as my fears of a very long and late night that spiraled downward began to surge, the host emphasized a moment of professional small talk by palming me a crisp wad of cash.

Discretion requires that you never look at palmed tips in front of the person that handed it to you or in front of other guests, so I slipped away quickly to the office where our belongings were, to satisfy my curiosity about how much money he had given me. My eyes bulged as I unfolded a large mass of hundred-dollar bills.

Jackpot.

I quickly crept back out to the bar area and poured myself a shot of Casa Dragones Joven to celebrate making it through one of the strangest, most stressful events I have ever worked. Soon, Joao asked me to help him clean up a little, then he told me it was okay for me to leave. After I gathered my things and was about to exit, the older Indian woman I had seen earlier in the downstairs kitchen pulled me aside. Like aunties and grandmothers from every culture, she insisted through broken English that I be fed before leaving and that I also have some food to take home with me. As I sat at the kitchen table in the home of these super wealthy people eating some of the best Indian food I have ever had, I wondered what Auntie would’ve thought had she seen her boss’s son wearing that Nazi jacket. My guess was that she’s probably seen stranger things while working there.

Since that evening, I thought quite a bit about where the line would’ve been for me that night. At what point might I have refused to go on?

Ultimately, I decided that if Nigel had approached me and ordered a drink while wearing that accursed jacket or even if he had spoken to me while wearing it, I would have had to walk out. Every single bar I have ever worked at has two hard and fast rules: No serving of alcohol to those under the age of 21, or to any visibly intoxicated person. To those I would also add NO SERVING NAZIS, or those wearing Nazi apparel. I know bartenders are supposed to always be above the political fray, and bars are supposed to be sanctuaries, but I draw the line at real-life genocidal supervillains. Unless there is a performance of Mel Brooks’ The Producers happening, wearing that kind of garb is a form of sartorial violence, and it is unacceptable.

So, what became of the son? What became of the Nazi-fetishizing Nigel?

Well, he currently boasts 1 million, likely fake followers on Instagram, most bought and paid for just like that heinous jacket. Every photo on there is of him “modeling” for fake magazine covers, all while wearing the same blank, wax figure expression he wore at the party while he spoke incessantly about himself and never asked anyone how they were or what they were interested in.

His Instagram profile describes him as being an:

Actor

Model

US Marine Reservist 🇺🇸 (who wears Nazi uniforms at his house parties)

Fitness Enthusiast 🏋️‍♂️

Extreme Athlete

Professional Wrestler

Cruz MMA 👊

NYU Tisch BFA In Theater 2020

And me?

I am a bartender. 

The Bartender’s Bartender with Charles Hardwick (THE COCKTAIL GURU PODCAST)

Check out my appearance on this episode of THE COCKTAIL GURU PODCAST, as I have a fun chat with father and son industry veterans Jonathan & Jeffrey Pogash on their terrifically entertaining podcast.

First they came for the barbacks…

First, they came for the porters, and I did not speak out

because I was not a porter.

Then they came for the dishwashers, and I did not speak out

because I was not a dishwasher.

Then they came for the bussers, and I did not speak out

because I was not a busser.

Then they came for the barbacks

And I did not speak out

Because I was not a barback.

Then they came for me, the bartender

And there was no one left

To speak out for me

According to the current inhabitant of the White House, and many of my fellow citizens, quite a few of the people I have worked alongside for the last 30 plus years have no place in America.

As far as he and his supporters are concerned, they have never belonged here and they simply don’t contribute anything to our country but crime and violence.

In his enfeebled, bigoted mind, these brutal thugs who arrive at the bar before I do, and leave well after I’ve gone home or out to have a post-shift cocktail are nothing but trouble .

They don’t pay taxes on their income, or contribute to the economy by paying rent, purchasing groceries and clothing, driving American commerce by ensuring that there is as little waste as possible at my bar by cutting the right amount of fresh fruit every day, and knowing that we need half as much lime juice on Monday than we do on a Friday or a Saturday. These adherents to the cult-like ideology called MAGA don’t believe that my barback is not just an extra set of extremities or the eyes, ears nor the vital organs of the bar, and they damn sure don’t realize that they are its soul.

That agency who shares its acronymic name with the substance my barback hauls and sometimes chips and hews down from larger pieces into the shape of precious jewels so that I can use it to dilute and chill and preserve the drinks I serve and make them more palatable and more beautiful thinks that they should be herded into internment camps and shipped off to foreign prisons and penned in like animals regardless of whether or not they have committed a crime, and without any consideration of their green card or citizenship status.

Why?

Because they are brown.

As far as the insult to frozen water agency is concerned, the person who makes my syrups, stocks my glassware, and is as fast-or faster even-than me at the service bar, but will still have a narrower pathway to being a bartender than even I did because their accent is too thick, or their skin is a different shade of brown, or their hair is too black. They infiltrated this country to work 12-hour shifts, 6 days a week, clearing away people’s dirty glassware, doing double duty cooking their food, and cleaning up the human mess left in our restrooms, and they lie in collective wait, slowly biding their time until the moment comes when they can rise up, awaken from their conspiratorial slumber, and rob, rape, and kill us all.

These criminal barbacks from Ecuador, felonious bussers from Bangladesh, miscreant porters from Senegal and from Mali, and lawbreaking bartenders from Mexico to Morocco are not, in fact, committed to quality service, or to making people happy, or to making a decent living so they can provide for their families and themselves.

No, they are here to undermine our stainless steel values despite having toiled next to me and my colleagues in the trenches of service during the bloodsport that is the push on a Friday night because they hate America and all it stands for. Armed with a bottle blade, uniformed with a black t-shirt, their cunning is surely remarkable, their resolve and work ethic are incredible, yet somehow, it is all a grave deception.

To those that would believe this nonsense and irresponsibly and cynically seek to further this false narrative, I say this: The bar and restaurant industry has afforded me a lot of opportunities. And all of them I have had to fight tooth and nail for. I value those gains immensely. But there is nothing I’ve received that is more valuable to me than the quality and diversity of the people I have worked alongside that come from other countries, especially Latin countries.

These are the immigrants.

Now let me tell you about a fellow I once knew named Jose. I worked with Jose at a place called Pravda, and in many ways, Pravda was ahead of its time. The drinks program (although they weren’t called drinks programs back then) was designed by Dale Degroff, and its free-poured, high-volume approach to making cocktails set the stage for the future success of places like Employees Only, Macao Trading Company, and Sip and Guzzle.

I worked at Pravda shortly after I worked at another place called The Odeon. This made for a pretty seamless cultural transition since The Odeon was formerly owned by Keith McNally, and Pravda was then still owned by him. It was said that Keith opened Pravda while he was waiting for all of the licensing and other red tape to clear up for the opening of the behemoth that became Balthazar, and that since he had all the contractors, designers, and architects already lined up, he decided to put them to work on realizing a vision he had for a subterranean vodka bar with caviar that resembled the sort that he had seen during some of his travels in Eastern Europe.

I started at Pravda in the spring of 2001, and little did I know the impact the people I met there would have on me, how much I would learn from them, not just about drinks but about bartending, and the seismic global events that would occur during my time there which would change the course of my professional life and of history itself.  But the events I’m about to share took place before all of that, and the time and the place are just the backdrop for the story of Jose.

Jose was a busser at Pravda. He was about 5’4 with hands the size of a child. He spoke English very well and had a lot of personality. He worked super hard, but he also worked SMART. He was super clever and resourceful and was always fun to talk to.

When it was slow, he would hang out by the service bar facing the floor so he could see all of the tables really well. He was so small you could easily have missed him, but Jose missed nothing.

What I myself missed about Jose during all of our talks was that he was also very ambitious. In fact, Jose had a secret plan.

He wanted to be a bartender.

Jose wasn’t just gossiping and talking shit when he was hanging out by the service bar; he was also watching and learning. And even though we already had a very fast and highly competent barback named Roberto who also made drinks at the service bar alongside the service bartender, which meant there was no real pathway for him to even be a barback. The hill was even steeper for him because the GM thought he was simply too small to do the job. Jose didn’t agree with this though. We didn’t know it at the time, but whenever he worked, he quietly and patiently studied everything we did behind that bar.

He memorized how we marked the placement of the cocktail with a chilled and garnished martini glass, how we held the mixing glass up high at eye level when we poured so we could see the levels of each ingredient, eyeballed the pour counts for each ingredient, the slightly superfluous but theatrical way we would nose the glass before we added the ice and clanking the Boston shakers together before shaking them, straining the drink and snapping off its last drops like a matador waving his cape in the last moments of a bullfight.

We wore crisp white chef’s jackets that were inspired by a famous cocktail bar called Schumann’s in Munich. The bussers and food runners wore black t-shirts that had the image of a big tin of caviar on them. I still have a couple of the jackets and one of the t-shirts for some reason. We all wore long, white bistro aprons that looked like skirts with the strings wrapped twice around our waists. There was a sartorial hierarchy to all this, and the bartenders were at the top of it.

This was not lost on José.

As I said, José had a plan. He watched and hatched it until one night on December 30th, 2002, his opportunity came. How do I know the exact date and time? Because it was New Year’s Eve Eve, which fell on a Monday, and that year, New Year’s Eve itself fell on a Tuesday. This meant that both Sunday and Monday, when normally only one bartender worked solo and without a barback, were as busy as a weekend night when we would have two bartenders and a barback. It was so busy, in fact, that one of the managers called me in to work the night before, but I didn’t get the message until late, and by the time I got there, things were already quieting down.

That night, I prepared myself and the bar like I was going to war because the previous night had been so insanely busy.

Even though this had happened, management neglected to schedule another bartender or even a barback to help me.

At first, service appeared normal. Maybe a bit busier than a typical Monday. Still, every time I made a Cosmopolitan, I refilled the cranberry juice storm pourer, I kept the bar napkins piled high, the simple syrup backup bottles full and handy. I cut extra fruit when I prepped the bar; I was as focused as an old gunslinger.

As I said earlier, the restaurant was below ground, and in the winter, it had heavy drapes in front of the door to minimize the amount of cold air that could come in when guests entered. Because the drapes hid the door, we also had a motion detector that, as a security measure, would beep every time the door opened. Working there, one would get used to the space between the beeps as an indicator of how busy it was getting.

The night progressed, and while it was busy, it wasn’t anything I couldn’t handle, and since I had overprepared, I began to think I might get through the night okay.

Then the motion detector started to beep more. And more.

And more.

The service bar printer began to spit out more and more dupes sounding like an old-fashioned ticker tape during the stock market crash of 1929: 2 Melon martinis, a Cosmopolitan, an Apple Martini, a Kempinsky Fizz, 4 chocolate martinis (super popular also the only batched drink thank God).

I started to get overwhelmed.

I only had two hands, and most of the menu drinks needed to be shaken. Meanwhile, Jose was bussing tables, but he was also watching the bar closely. NYC bartending legend Henry Lafargue, who has since passed into glory, was managing the floor that night, and for whatever reason, he had every faith that I could handle things.

Perhaps too much faith.

I quickly began to feel like a surfer staring at a looming tsunami. Sirens went off in my head. This was not a drill.

Jose looked at me expectantly, eagerly even, waiting for me to pull a Hackman in Hoosiers and call him off the bench.

Finally, his moment came. I asked him to come behind the bar and serve only beers and things like vodka sodas, vodka cranberries, and other drinks that we call one-and-ones.

The drink orders flooded in, the motion detector at the front door sounded like a damn smoke alarm going off, and the service bar printer rattled and hummed as the dupes spooled onto the floor.

Even though I told him not to, Jose started making Apple Martinis and other menu cocktails. He had been watching us work so closely during his downtime stationed by the service bar that he had memorized many of the recipes just by observing. It was impressive how well he pantomimed the way we made the drinks. Some of them were still not made correctly, but he came damn close on most of them.

Things descended into borderline chaos. The entire bar was 2-3 deep, the restaurant was packed, and it was just me and Jose, a busser drafted into service as a barback making the drinks for the entire restaurant. I looked at Henry, and he looked unfazed. Amused even. I was sweating profusely, and I found a moment to indulge in a common custom and a rite of passage at the bar and share it with Jose. Together, we pounded a shot of Stoli Gold vodka.

I got absolutely crushed during service that night. It seemed like the drink orders would never stop coming. But that shift would have been infinitely worse had Jose not been working. He didn’t just save my ass; he saved the entire restaurant from going down in flames.

One metric that might provide some bit of perspective on how busy it was: On even the busiest Saturday night, the most the bar would ever get tipped out by the servers for making their drinks—this is based on sales volume, mind you, since that’s how they also get tipped—was 150 bucks. So with this in mind, how much do you think the servers tipped me out that night?

They tipped me out $150.

When the mayhem was over, I stuffed a wad of cash into José’s child-sized hand, thanked him, and we did another shot of Stoli Gold. I broke down the bar and sat down for a bit after work for a shift drink while I reflected and marveled at how strategically José had been at playing the long game without any of us realizing it.

A couple of years later, and after I had moved on, I heard that José had followed the two most prominent bartenders at Pravda and future co-owners of Employees Only to another place Keith McNally opened on the LES called Schiller’s. There he became a full-time barback, and then when they left there, along with Henry and others, left to open their own place. That place?

Employees Only.

There José finally became a full-time bartender. What’s more, his regular shifts were working behind the bar with Henry. This little Mexican guy had become a kind of Mighty Mouse of the bar. Equipped with a sharp mind and an ambitious and industrious spirit, a former busser who could barely see over the bar top and who could barely get his fingers around a Boston Shaker, ended up an opening Principal Bartender at what was then the most high-volume and profitable cocktail bar in the city, maybe even the country. And you know what?

He didn’t steal a dime.

Cocktail Epilogue

The Moroccan Martini created by Abdul Tabini:

2 parts Stoli Ohranj

1/2 part fresh lime juice

1/2 part Agave nectar

Splash fresh orange juice

4 mint leaves

Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass along with ice. Shake passionately to insure the breaking up of the mint leaves. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a mint leaf.

A Simple Twist of Kate

Imagine encountering someone you’ve never met before, yet you’ve seen them hundreds, maybe even thousands of times.

You know where they’re from, their age, their relationship history, how much money they make, even their height, yet you have never spoken. You are a complete stranger to them.

Today is different though. On this day, you’re playing a more familiar role: that of the ultimate friendly face. Amidst an endless sea of intruders, sycophants, patrons and paparazzi, nobodies and yes men, you are the only one who wants nothing from them because you are there to serve.

You are their bartender.

The first time I served a big celebrity, I was briefly hunched over the sink behind the bar at a trendy SoHo restaurant where I was the Bar Manager. Suddenly I felt eyes on me. I looked up to see the biggest supermodel in the world at that time peering at me from between the beer taps. She disarmed me with a smile that had graced countless magazine covers and said hello in a familiar tone. For an instant I almost forgot where I was. Had I met her somewhere recently? Obviously, I knew her, but she also seemed to know me. How?

     Her British accent was quite apparent as she spoke again, “I have a bit of a sore throat and was wondering if you had something for it. Maybe a-what’s it called…a Hot Toddy?” Suddenly jolted back to reality and context I realized I was in fact working the bar and I was her bartender; therefore, it was my duty to make a drink for her.

 “Sure”, I said. “Would you like whiskey, brandy, or rum?”

“Whatever you think is best” she replied. Her being English I settled on a nice scotch diluted with warm water fortified with a bit of honey and lemon. I stirred it up and handed it over. She took a sip and as she complimented me on it that odd disoriented feeling returned. This was not because I was star struck. Being from New York and bartending in many kind of sceney, exclusive downtown places I had served, met or partied with numerous celebs since I was a kid. But there was something that felt different in the dynamic on this day. Here was a very well-known celebrity that is often forced to shun and avoid public attention. She’s a supermodel that has had to contend with being recognized wherever she goes. She is sought after, in demeand, and she must tolerate being approached by strangers as though they know her because they know her image so very well. Yet on this day, at this moment, she has come to me seeking something, and she recognizes me, or at least the role I play behind the bar even though we have never met before. In this case it is my image as the bartender is one that is familiar and for one bewildering instant, the typical social dynamic is inverted and it’s as though we both inhabit the same stratosphere. We are breathing the same oxygen and today Kate Moss is my friend.

Ok, not really, but it feels that way.

Being a bartender means that, at least when you are working, you become a public figure. Like the song on the TV show said, “Where everybody knows your name…” and your name is “bartender”.

Unless you decide to share your real name, which can sometimes be the worst hospitality decision you can make.

For better or for worse, when you’re their bartender people really feel like they know you. And for the duration of their stay at the bar, you’re their buddy, their confidante, their matchmaker, and their life concierge. Participating in this charade of a friendship with your guests can be annoying at times, as can, I imagine, being a celebrity. Guests, especially regulars, can start to feel like fans.

They want to trade in gossip, namedrop, and know what you’re up to when you’re not at work. They sometimes push the envelope by making judgmental comments on your appearance or demeanor. They expect entertainment from you in the form of hospitality, and they keep coming back for more. At the end of the day though, this is what you want, and what you need.

Fans.

Regulars.

A loyal group of people to sustain you when it’s slow or when you’re bored. To get you through the lean times. You may start to feel a hint of contempt at the familiarity and routine of it all but ultimately the show can’t go on without them.

Kate Moss sipped her Hot Toddy and resumed her conversation with her agent or whoever she was there with and when she was done, she paid, said thank you and left. And in her wake, I plummeted back to earth, and returned to the dull and quotidian rituals of polishing glassware and cutting fruit.

But for a brief glossy moment I was on the one on the cover of that magazine and I was the star.

I breached that paper wall, ascended to the top, and was recognized and was recognized. With a tip.

Cocktail Epilogue:

Hot Toddy

½ oz brandy, whiskey, rum or combination of two

1-teaspoon clover honey

½ fresh lemon juice

Combine in a mug and fill with hot water or tea.

The Sum of All Cheers

You awaken. slightly bleary eyed.

Upon realizing you’re alive, and which end of the bed your head is resting on, or even that you’re in a bed at all, you begin to reflect on the events of the previous night. You may struggle to remember the name of the person next to you if there is one, or the location of your phone, and where the various business cards and cocktail napkins with phone numbers on them in your pocket came from, and… “What the hell is that stain on my shirt and why is my knee sore?!?”

Never has a journey lasting 12 or so hours seemed as perilous as the one taken on New Year’s Eve. The occasion is singularly fraught with sharp turns and pitfalls:  the requisite kiss at midnight can escalate and lead to much more than you planned, a celebratory toast can easily turn into multiple shots and a trip through a drunken wormhole. I have witnessed many a New Year’s Eve train wreck during my years behind the bar. So while not typically a fan of lists, I have struggled to carefully choose and share with you here some humble suggestions on how you might scale the ladder of revelry without tumbling down a chute of bad decisions on New Year’s Eve.

  1. Know whether you’re coming or going. Map out in as tangible terms as possible, where you are going, how you will get there and more importantly, how you will get home. Taxis and Car services like Uber will be in very high demand, and in the case of Uber, will implement surge pricing of up to 50% more than they would normally charge. Personally, if I’m traveling alone, I ride my bike and secretly scoff at all the people struggling to get cabs. Also look into public transportation options near your home and destination, the bus sounds corny or like something for old ladies until you’ve been standing in the cold for an hour trying to get a taxi.
  2. Pace yourself. This is especially true if the party you’re going to has an open bar. Even if the open bar ends before 4 don’t be a booze camel. You’ll be wasted by midnight and have a terrible rest of the evening.
  3. Be nice to your date and don’t try to upgrade. New Year’s Eve is also the number one night for breakups. People get a bit hammered and say things they don’t mean or they get succumb to the pressures of the evening and lash out at the person closest to them when things don’t go as planned. Take a deep breath and remember, it’s the end of the year not the end of the world, which leads me to my next point.
  4. Don’t chase perfection. It doesn’t exist the other 364 nights of the year, and it doesn’t exist on New Year’s. Sometimes it’s best to settle for a decent night than to chase the mirage of an epic one.
  5. Use the buddy system. Make a pact with a responsible friend or two and look out for each other, if they leave with a stranger make sure you politely get the person’s info, if they take offense you have permission to massively cockblock them.
  6. Eat hearty beforehand. Because, Duh.
  7. You don’t have to hook up with someone. That expression “it’s better to regret something you have done than something you haven’t done”? Not on New Year’s it isn’t.
  8. Don’t accept drinks or a rides from strangers. Unfortunately some people’s idea of a good time involves victimizing other people. (Also see #5 and #1 again)
  9. Get a phone leash. You will lose your phone at least once during the night.
  10. Plan your New Year’s Day. It’ll give you some perspective and help you realize that you want to have a good day the next day and avoid that shameful walk and the cold comfort of your bathroom floor.

So there you have it. A bar’s eye view on having fun and staying safe on the biggest party night of the year. Enjoy, drink, and be wary.

Cocktail Epilogue:

Champagne Cocktail

4 oz Blanc de Blanc champagne
1 white sugar cube
2 light dashes of Angostura bitters

Method: place sugar cube in the bottom of a champagne flute and dash with Angostura bitters. Slowly add champagne by pouring down the length of a bar spoon. Watch the sugar excite the effervescence in the glass, and sip and enjoy while stirring occasionally.

Drinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy

Secret [see-krit]: faithful or cautious in keeping confidential matters confidential; close-mouthed; reticent.

In this time of NSA eavesdropping and data mining, of leaks and whistleblowers, let us take a moment to consider privilege. Not Attorney/Client, nor Doctor/Patient, but something perhaps even more treasured and ubiquitous. Let us consider the privilege that exists between bartender and guest.

 Those of us that frequent bars and restaurants entrust our bartenders with a great many things. We often do this without even really thinking about it. There are the material things: the bartender holds your credit card when you run a tab, we’ll safely guard your phone that’s charging and not read your text messages. When you ask for a Ketel One and soda, you get a Ketel One and Soda. When you are at a table and request that obscure $32 Age D’or Calvados that pairs perfectly with your dessert, it goes without saying that the contents of your glass have not been surreptitiously replaced with some spirit of far lesser quality. You take for granted that your bartender is washing their bar tools and their hands thoroughly and frequently, and, when visiting a craft cocktail bar, that all the garnishes are market fresh and have been carefully chosen and maintained. The social contract and guest-to-host dynamic in our bars affords us a certain civility and comfort and on this we heavily rely.

A good, observant bartender bears witness to a great many private things and hears a great many secrets. We know where the bodies are buried and who did the burying; we know the numbers and the data behind them. We know what’s cooking in the kitchen and in the office. Bartenders are exposed to all these things, yet as professionals we are all sworn to obey the prime directive of bartending:  Discretion.

My favorite example of this involves a legendary NYC bar owner and colleague of mine. Even though he is incredibly knowledgeable and fluent about wash lines, the science of shaking and the importance of the surface area of ice cubes in cooling your cocktail, he is equally  concerned with preserving the sanctity of his bars as places where all his guests, be they famous or just a face in the crowd, can feel well looked after and have their privacy maintained.

One particular night at his bar he had a guest he had never seen before drinking with a friend. This person happened to be drinking the cocktail equivalent of a Dead Man’s hand in Poker: a drink invented by Ernest Hemingway called a “Death in The Afternoon.” After having several of these, he promptly passed out at the table and was abandoned by his friend. In search of a relative or significant other he could contact to come retrieve the fellow , my colleague scrolled through his texts and recent calls. He found  the number of the guy’s girlfriend, but not before discovering some salacious texts from a second girlfriend. He promptly deleted the incriminating texts to save the guy from the wrath of the first girlfriend and then contacts her. She asks him to put him in a cab, which he does, but the driver will not take him home alone in such an unresponsive state, so he  rides home with him. Along the way the guy soils himself. In spite of this, he takes the guy to his door and left him safely in the care of his girlfriend . He played Alfred to his Batman and fulfilled his duty, he saved him from himself and asked for no reward

It also pays to have a short memory. I once worked with a guy who, like a lot of bartenders, worked two bar jobs. Both places were owned by the same person and, while differing in concept, they shared a similar clientele. One was a French-American bistro and the other a trendy subterranean Russian-Inspired cocktail bar. Said bartender had a male regular that he knew quite well. This gentleman liked to frequent the bar at the bistro with his wife and the cocktail bar with his mistress. At one bar he’d laugh raucously and passionately grope his paramour, and at the other he’d enjoy a more placid date night with his spouse. In visiting both places it was implicitly understood that his bartender would never disclose having seen him with another woman, and further that he even visited him at the other bar at all.

While thoughts of such deception may seem distasteful, this guest felt very secure in doing this because he trusted his bartender.  It is not our place to judge or comment on such matters it is simply to serve and provide a safe harbor from the stress and strife of life outside those swinging doors. Regular or rookie, this benefit is afforded by bar professionals to all of our guests. One veteran bartender I know follows this code to such an extreme that if you walk into his bar with someone he’s never seen you with before he will behave as though does not know you. More than once when walking into his bar I have been greeted with a blank stare found myself feeling like the star of another remake of “Total Recall.”.

Those of us that choose to do this professionally believe in the inviolability of the bar. We work for tips, but that alone does not sustain us, your trust does.

Waitresses can chat about their cramps and their love lives, the owner will grouse about his business partners and the General Manager spending all his money, the GM will complain about the owner being a skinflint and we are privy to it all.  It is priceless information, and at the end of our shift it gets placed into the vault of our memories and we dutifully forget the combination.

 

Cocktail Epilogue:

Death In The Afternoon

1 oz. Absinthe

4 oz. chilled Champagne

Method as per Ernest Hemingway as published in “So Red The Nose” ca. 1935:

“Pour one jigger absinthe into a Champagne glass. Add iced Champagne until it attains the proper opalescent milkiness. Drink three to five of these slowly.”

Interview on Heritage Radio’s “The Speakeasy” with Damon Boelte

Lo these past several weeks, I have been extremely busy opening a new fine dining restaurant in midtown with several luminaries from Eleven Madison Park and The NoMad. The rigors of doing this, along with eating and sleeping, has pulled me far off of my normal update schedule. I did, however, manage to find time to do an interview with Renaissance man and raconteur Damon Boelte for his Heritage Radio show”The Speakeasy.” We spent an awesome afternoon drinking Negra Modelo and eating pizza at Roberta’s in Brooklyn. We also managed to squeeze in a shot of tequila or two, and a mysterious blend of their house “Frozen Drank” mixed with Smutty Nose IPA.

IMG_6555

All in all, it was an epic day filled with a lot of great conversation. The link to the interview can be found here :http://www.heritageradionetwork.com/episodes/4131-The-Speakeasy-Episode-93-Charles-Hardwick

On the page you will also see a link to support their brilliant non-profit efforts. If you are able, please do so, they are doing valuable work!

Follow Heritage Radio on Twitter at: @Heritage_Radio and Damon Boelte at: @SpeakeasyRadio. They rule.

Men Sipping Through Straws

I fell off my bike the other day.

I was riding the wrong way down Elizabeth St. and unaware of the large pothole looming before me. When my wheel hit the edge of it, off I tumbled. Luckily I rolled with the fall and only ended up feeling a little bruised. Like a fool, I wasn’t wearing a helmet and it was a bit painful. Far more painful, however, has been the philosophical bruisings I’ve suffered in witnessing the bizarre drinking habits of the modern American male these days.

Time was when bars were places where men went to do Manly things: to drink, to carouse and chase women, to engage in discourse both civil and raunchy, and to grouse about their troubles. Read Hemingway, or Fitzgerald, watch Bogey, or Gable; for God’s sake, listen to Tom Waits or Leadbelly, and there you will find the perfect essence of life and bar culture distilled down and perfectly expressed. These men of yore weren’t concerned with their carb intake or the state of their prostate. If they were hungry they ate steak and potatoes. They slaked their thirst with a Scotch and water or a Boilermaker, not a Jack and Diet Coke or Bud Light. Their problems and concerns were simple and timeless and they didn’t spend thousands of dollars on psychotherapy. Their shrink was their barber or their bartender. Viagra? It was served in a tumbler. All you needed was a couple of stiff belts and you felt like Rhett Butler primed to carry Scarlett up the stairs at Tara. The doctor’s prescription read: Vodka, Rum, Gin, Rye, Bourbon, Irish Whiskey, and Blended Scotch.

Yes, Blended Scotch.

Before every pisher with 20 crumpled bucks in his pocket assumed aged single-malt always meant a better whiskey, men had the taste, experience and individuality to order what they wanted, rather than what they felt they were supposed to order. And they often ordered blended Scotch. These days too many men order what they feel is sensible and expected; the beverage equivalent of a bicycle helmet in a glass, or a Martini with training wheels. Sam Peckinpah, Raymond Chandler, and Langston Hughes smoked and drank unrepentantly and I believe their work reflected and conveyed much richer experiences largely because of this.

Try for a moment, to imagine Humphrey Bogart in “Casablanca” slumped over the bar at Rick’s Place, broken-hearted by Ingrid Bergman’s return, without a cigarette burning in the ashtray and nursing a Vodka Red Bull. Or Peter O’Toole and Richard Harris regaling their fellow patrons at the local pub over an Amstel light instead of a frothy pint of Guinness, and you’ll begin to understand what I’m talking about. Bombarded by strange, conflicting images emanating from our movie and television screens and our iPads, we men now feel a pathological need to behave like the practical, colon-conscious, offspring of Dr. Oz and Martha Stewart. We do everything we can to avoid offending the public’s increasingly delicate sensibilities. This strange neurosis seems to overly mitigate our drinking and culinary choices and nowhere is this more sadly apparent than in a bar. Bukowski and Pollock, for better or worse, are forever as linked to bar culture as they are to their bodies of work. Moreover, this complex ecosystem informed their work greatly. Quoth John Barrymore in reference to acting: “ There are lots of methods. Mine involves a lot of talent, a glass, and some cracked ice.”

This modern preoccupation with “health” seems to involve consuming only decaf espresso, ”lite” beer, and my personal bête noire, Diet Coke. Of the tiny percentage of coffee drinkers that drink coffee for the taste, which of them can say they actually enjoy the taste of decaf?!? Light beer, and Diet Coke, and decaf coffee are unique and unfortunate American concepts and the world of adult beverages is all the worse for them.

Which brings me to perhaps the most misbegotten drinking accessory of them all: the soda straw. Not to be confused with the sipping straw whose primary purpose is to mix or stir your iced drink as you progress through consuming it, the soda straw was until recently under the purview of milkshakes and various children’s beverages. Now it is the equivalent of short pants for your drink. Something that, with the exception of certain types of cocktails: Cobblers, Slings, Mint Juleps, and Tiki drinks, every adult should have outgrown long ago. These days I see grown men drinking a whiskey and soda, or the aforementioned Jack and Diet Coke through a soda straw. Watching a grown man eat a bunless burger with a knife and fork while he drinks his beer with a straw is akin to watching him consume his own entrails. Horrifying.

Do I propose that we eliminate such things as drinking Jack Daniels through a straw, or putting Sweet ‘n’ Low in your Irish Coffee? Far be it from me to even suggest such an audacious thing. I merely suggest that we shun things like Light Beer back to the grimy, dark corners of the beer cooler next to the O’Douls. That the Diet Coke button on the soda gun be rigid and unpressable from neglect, and that the underused can of decaf coffee be so old that Juan Valdez’ moustache has begun to gray. Say what you will about the French, their lifestyle has made it necessary for scientists to study the “French Paradox” in trying to figure out why, despite their consumption of foods that food science tells us are very unhealthy, they actually have a lower rate of heart disease than Americans do. And to oversimplify their findings a bit, they have determined that this has less to do with what they eat and drink, than how they eat and drink. They don’t drink to get drunk. They enjoy themselves. They eat slowly and savor the experience and the company, with balanced tastes and little to no direct concern for carbs and cholesterol, only quality. The American male could benefit tremendously from this uniquely epicurean perspective on life. So gentlemen, let’s get off our libationary tricycles and ride the wrong way down that street.

You might just rediscover your manhood.

Cocktail Epilogue:

The Fitzgerald Cocktail
1.5 oz dry gin
0.75 oz lemon juice
0.75 oz simple syrup
2 dashes Angostura Bitters

Method: Combine and shake all ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass, or strain over fresh ice into a rocks glass.

A Man Walks Into A Bar…

“A man walks into a bar…”

Those six words have filled many a bartender with dread and angst at the prospect of hearing yet another ancient, unfunny, or worse, offensive joke from a guest sitting at their bar. Bar jokes can inspire the eruption of laughter and the breaking of ice, or unleash the hurling of insults and the breaking of glass. Either way, it’s the bartender’s job to smile and nod approvingly or, if the joke is particularly bad, smirk and pretend that it falls into the “it’s so bad it’s good” category. A bartender is an audience of one that may let you get bombed, but won’t leave you feeling like your joke was a bomb.

I’ve heard a ton of bar jokes over the years. I’ve heard them from people of all professions: cops, lawyers, firemen, mobsters, construction workers, pimps, fellow bartenders, shell-shocked Vietnam vets, and on the list goes.  I’ve heard long one’s and short ones, silly ones and clever ones, chaste ones and crude ones, straightforward ones and ones that make you think. Hearing the words, “Knock , knock” on a lazy day while stirring a Manhattan will always make me perk up slightly, smile with anticipation and say, “Who’s there?,” for it’s the bartender’s job to listen to the unlistenable, laugh at the unlaughable and answer the unanswerable.

And as is the case with everything, it’s all in the timing. Anyone who wants to try and make me laugh before they’ve ordered a drink probably doesn’t have the money to pay and is looking to ingratiate him or herself before sharing this important fact.  So if someone walks up to my bar and the first thing they say is, “Why don’t aliens eat clowns?” my defenses will go up and I will respond drily with, “What’ll you have?” Pose the same question halfway through that first martini though, and I’ll be waiting for the punch line with bated breath. Or at least I’ll pretend to. A funny joke is a good opener, but that doesn’t mean it should be the very first thing you say. (The answer by the way, is because they taste funny”)

Two-liners tend to be the most effective openers, since they have a quick payoff and there is less opportunity for you to be interrupted by the drunk guy halfway off his stool at the end of the bar. Jokes about ducks, giraffes and grasshoppers walking into bars usually end well, as does anything involving Superman, Batman or Wonder Woman. If they contain any three of those, well, you just might make beer come out of someone’s nose.  Men telling jokes to other men are low risk. Most men are acutely aware and sensitive to the fragility of the male ego in this context. However, men telling jokes to women, especially if they’ve just met them, pose more of a risk, but when successful, they can pay off tremendously. The only thing that works better than a good joke for meeting women in a bar, is a well-executed magic trick. (Yes, I’ve seen it done.) Unlike magic though, a good two-liner is easy to learn and not hard to properly execute. Making laughter appear out of thin air can help you advance your cause with the woman a few stools over, and you may curry a bit of favor with the bartender. Even the most cynical and jaded of us will often reward a good joke with a shot or an offer to buy your next beer. A good bar is a microcosm of the social ecosystem we all inhabit, and the right joke can bridge continents far and wide and make laughter rain down upon them.

Dirty jokes are a matter of taste, but there are some places you just shouldn’t go. Body parts and what might be done with them are best alluded to rather than directly mentioned. However, it is a bar, so some degree of raunch is warranted.  In my opinion, it is best to let the person’s imagination do most of the work and then zing them with a killer punch line.

Case in point, the Willie Nelson joke.

The Willie Nelson joke was told to me by a bartender friend of mine named T.J., and to me it is the perfect bar joke. It’s a two-liner, and while it doesn’t have Batman or Wonder Woman in it, it does have Willie Nelson. It’s clean enough that you can tell it in front of your grandmother, yet still bawdy enough to meet the raunchy standards of the local smoke-filled tavern. Two caveats though: One, while you can tell the joke to men, if you do so, you must tell it to them instructively, as though you are teaching them how to tell it to women. This doesn’t take away from its punch. It’s just a slight modification because the joke is really meant to be told to women. Two, and this is pretty obvious, the person hearing the joke must know who Willie Nelson is. They must be able to picture Willie Nelson looks in all his hairy, weathered, twangy voiced splendor. That means there’s no telling this joke to Sherpas from Tibet or time-traveling vixens from the past.

So, now that you’ve thoroughly profiled your audience member(s) you may proceed to the joke:

Question: “What’s the worst thing you can hear after having just slept with Willie Nelson?” (Pause patiently and give the listener time to try and picture herself actually sleeping with Willie Nelson)

Answer: “Ummm, I dunno.”

The punch line (delivered while leaning in close and whispering into her ear)

“I’m not really Willie Nelson.”

After the peals of laughter have subsided, take note of the shoulders that seem a little less heavy with stress, the posture that is a little less defensive. For a few moments you have pulled aside the drapes of cynicism, and opened a window to hospitality and conversation.

It is said that alcohol is a social lubricant. But humor oils the skids of social discourse. Nothing takes the edge off like a good joke.

Now, somebody please get this duck off of my head?

Cocktail Epilogue

Grasshopper

1 part Crème de Cacao

¾ part Green Crème de Menthe

2 parts Cream

Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker along with ice. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

A grasshopper hops into a bar. The bartender says to him, “Y’know you’re pretty famous around here. We even have a drink named after you.” The grasshopper says, “You have a drink named Irving?”

Source: Unknown.

The Bubbly and The Green Dress

The story behind the creation of the Bellini, and how the drink got it’s name, is fairly colorful and interesting. Yet perhaps even more interesting, is the story of how Harry’s Bar, the place where the drink is said to have originated, was financed in it’s beginning. Something involving money lent to an expat American (the eponymous Harry) in Venice during the depression. It’s all very Hemingway-esque. Which is ironic, since Harry’s later became one of Papa Hemingway’s favorite haunts.

My own personal Bellini story is a bit more R-rated, but it is, I assure you, quite colorful and exemplifies the kind of spontaneous, “No two days are ever the same” shenanigans unique to the life of a bartender.

I was somewhat wearily throttling the stick on a late Saturday night, while entertaining a few dead-enders and an old friend who lived nearby. This particular friend had been having great difficulty meeting and finding success with the opposite sex. So from my discerning perch behind the bar, I decided to make him something of a personal project of mine. I encouraged him to read some books on social interaction with women, to work on his appearance a bit, and to use the bar whenever he wanted as a sort of flight-simulator for chatting up the female species. He took advantage of this with varying levels of success during pretty much every shift I worked.

Part of this evolving makeover also included him wearing different and slightly flashier clothing and accessories in order to attract attention from afar and to stand out in the crowd of all the similarly clothed, male, Dockers wearing sloths who usually populated my bar on the weekends. Among his more favored accessories was a white fedora-style hat with a bold patterned band. The accoutrement worked rather well, and he began to have a lot more women approach him to flirt and strike up conversation. This is, in fact, what happened on this particular Saturday night shortly after a group of about 6 people came in and ordered a round of drinks. There were a few women in the group and one was wearing a very short, and very tight, green, one shoulder dress. tan, barelegged and propped up to an impressive height in a pair of wedges, she had dark blonde hair and garnered no small amount of attention from the malingering guests at the bar. This included my friend, whom I will call Dennis.  As the group began to order their respective drinks, I could see Dennis considering his conversational points of entry and doing the necessary mental calculus required before approaching a strange woman at a bar. The groups round consisted of the usual assortment of vodka sodas, etc. with the last two drinks standing out slightly. One being a Maker’s Mark on the rocks and the girl in the green dress’ order: a Bellini.

A Bellini? At 3 am? I hesitated and thought about suggesting something more appropriate to the hour and setting but I learned long ago not to argue or even try to understand these things. As I rummaged through my low-boy fridge to find the white peach puree, checked the expiration date and then began to mix her cocktail, I noticed her grab the glass of Maker’s Mark while the other guys back was turned and take a huge gulp of his bourbon. My mouth was agape momentarily as I stirred the puree into the Prosecco. I was both stunned and impressed.

I probably should have been concerned, but then, there was the matter of that dress. While I stirred and began to pour, Dennis feebly struck up a conversation with her, using some sort of mundane but ultimately effective opener. Broken clock theory at its best. She bit and they were chatting pleasantly as I served her cocktail.

As the two of them drank and talked, she playfully removed his hat and put it on, unintentionally proving that it was an awesome accessory to everything else she was wearing. Further, she proved herself to be quite insightful and observant when; upon noticing Dennis’ discomfort at being deprived of his hat, she made a bold pronouncement about his seeming to “Need the hat to feel complete.” “What do you mean?” he blinked, as I stood there slack-jawed at her perceptiveness. “ I just feel like you need the hat. Like you feel as though it’s the source of your power. Some sort of crutch maybe.” Whoa. This girl was quickly making mince meat out of him. Dennis was reeling and clearly out of his depth, so I decided to extend a hand across the bar and try to pull him back into shallower waters. “Waitaminnit.” I piped up. “You women are the last people who should talk about needing a piece of clothing as a source of power.” She turned toward me serenely and said, “What do you mean?” I continued, pontificating, “Well you have all these things you use to look better, smell better, appear taller, sexier, and you use them to get all of kinds of extra attention when you go out.” And then I made one of the best conversational maneuvers of my entire career behind the bar. “Like that dress for example.” “This dress?” she said, stepping away from the bar so we could survey her from head to toe. By this time, her friends had made their way outside to the smoking patio and the only ones at the bar were me, Dennis, and our inscrutable middle-aged Chinese barback Min who stood nearby waiting for the keys so he could begin locking up the joint.

We all looked her up and down and figuring I had her cornered logically, I smirked with satisfaction and prepared to gloat. “Yes.” I answered. Suddenly, with what seemed like preternatural speed, she reached down, pulled her dress over her head, completely off, and flung it aside. She stood there defiantly in nothing but a pair of wedges and a G-string.

Talk about playing your trump card. I was rendered mute, something that rarely happens to me behind the bar. Min looked like he just won 10 grand at Mah-Jongg and Dennis tongue rolled out of his mouth and out the front door. She seemed calm and sober as she said superfluously, “I don’t need this dress.” She had a beautiful, toned, sun smooched figure. As I took everything in, I believe I managed to stammer, “You win” or something to that effect. A little observant time behind the bar will quickly teach you that women are much smarter creatures than men, and with a flick of her wrist this woman had just proven it. She outmaneuvered us all. Game. Set. Match.

There were a few more conversational acrobatics as she put her dress back on and then, for her closing argument, removed it again, this time along with the g-string.  Later, during her nude bartending lesson, she told me that F. Scott Fitzgerald was her Great-Grandfather and she proved this by almost drinking the bar into bankruptcy. (After a display of such audacious wit, drinks were most certainly on the house.) I have no idea where her friends went, but after I tossed her almost forgotten g-string into the cab I escorted her to, I locked up, and was left with a memorable and humbling lesson in gender dynamics.  And you can’t put that into the tip bucket.

Cocktail Epilogue

The Bellini

2 parts White Peach Puree

3 parts Prosecco*

½ part Marie Brizard Peach liqueur (optional)

Combine ingredients (without ice) in a mixing glass and stir. Then pour into a chilled champagne flute.

-Invented in 1948 by Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of Harry’s bar in Venice, Italy.

*As always, proportions may be adjusted slightly according to personal taste.

 

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